UNCOVERED AND UNDRESSED: THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF AN UNDERGARMENT AT THE ST JAMES AME ZION CHURCH
Recovery of a near-complete pair of women's underwear from the garden of the historic St. James AME Zion church in Ithaca, NY, was an unexpected archaeological find. This thesis examines “Object 3,” a probable pair of mid-twentieth-century women’s shapewear shorts, to explore what intimate apparel can reveal about daily life. Using a mixed-methods approach that combines artifact analysis, fiber identification, infrared examination, presumptive blood testing, replica pattern drafting, and comparison with primary source materials such as historical magazines, patents, and mail-order catalogs, this study reconstructs the garment’s material composition, likely date, and possible use histories. The evidence suggests that the garment dates to the early to mid-1960s, and that it may preserve traces of menstruation or another episode of bodily bleeding. Although the precise circumstances of its deposition cannot be determined, Object 3 demonstrates how intimate garments can illuminate the intersections of gender, race, religion, beauty culture, privacy, and discard practices in the recent past.