FASHIONING MEMORIES, PLACES, AND ARCHIVES: BLACK WOMEN’S STYLE IN HARLEM, NEW YORK CITY, 1970-PRESENT
This dissertation explores the integral role that modern Black women hold in the making of Black spaces and places, material and intangible memories, and unconventional archives that center fashion. Through wardrobes and related fashion archives and practices, Black women assert their presence and contribution as memory workers whose everyday, fashioned lived experiences are the nexus of the culture. The women’s dressed bodies that carry culture are making a specific Black fashion place—Harlem, New York City. Harlem is a unique site that is made up of rich Black fashion histories, and this dissertation investigates how the modern Black woman continually plays a role in these histories and assertions. In this dissertation, I develop two theoretical concepts that stem from Black feminist literature and my research findings: style narrative geographies and collective-declaration. The two concepts, in similar yet distinct ways, articulate how negotiated subject positions, dress practices, spatial identities, and the wardrobe/material culture are co-constitutive and inform how Black women continually define themselves as individuals and as a collective in the process of world-building. Furthermore, the concepts capture how Black women assert themselves and their fashion stories in spaces that have historically excluded them. These reclamations of identity and space are therefore embodiments of empowerment and liberation through fashion.