Cornell University
Library
Cornell UniversityLibrary

eCommons

Help
Log In(current)
  1. Home
  2. Cornell University Graduate School
  3. Cornell Theses and Dissertations
  4. FASHIONING MEMORIES, PLACES, AND ARCHIVES: BLACK WOMEN’S STYLE IN HARLEM, NEW YORK CITY, 1970-PRESENT

FASHIONING MEMORIES, PLACES, AND ARCHIVES: BLACK WOMEN’S STYLE IN HARLEM, NEW YORK CITY, 1970-PRESENT

File(s)
Matthews_cornellgrad_0058F_14338.pdf (4.91 MB)
No Access Until
2026-09-03
Permanent Link(s)
https://doi.org/10.7298/b1df-6k16
https://hdl.handle.net/1813/116526
Collections
Cornell Theses and Dissertations
Author
Matthews, Dyese
Abstract

This dissertation explores the integral role that modern Black women hold in the making of Black spaces and places, material and intangible memories, and unconventional archives that center fashion. Through wardrobes and related fashion archives and practices, Black women assert their presence and contribution as memory workers whose everyday, fashioned lived experiences are the nexus of the culture. The women’s dressed bodies that carry culture are making a specific Black fashion place—Harlem, New York City. Harlem is a unique site that is made up of rich Black fashion histories, and this dissertation investigates how the modern Black woman continually plays a role in these histories and assertions. In this dissertation, I develop two theoretical concepts that stem from Black feminist literature and my research findings: style narrative geographies and collective-declaration. The two concepts, in similar yet distinct ways, articulate how negotiated subject positions, dress practices, spatial identities, and the wardrobe/material culture are co-constitutive and inform how Black women continually define themselves as individuals and as a collective in the process of world-building. Furthermore, the concepts capture how Black women assert themselves and their fashion stories in spaces that have historically excluded them. These reclamations of identity and space are therefore embodiments of empowerment and liberation through fashion.

Description
203 pages
Date Issued
2024-08
Keywords
African American
•
archive
•
gentrification
•
Harlem
•
style narratives
•
women
Committee Chair
Green, Denise
Committee Member
Nunley, Tamika
Byfield, Judith
Reed, Jaleesa
Degree Discipline
Fiber Science and Apparel Design
Degree Name
Ph. D., Fiber Science and Apparel Design
Degree Level
Doctor of Philosophy
Type
dissertation or thesis
Link(s) to Catalog Record
https://newcatalog.library.cornell.edu/catalog/16611970

Site Statistics | Help

About eCommons | Policies | Terms of use | Contact Us

copyright © 2002-2026 Cornell University Library | Privacy | Web Accessibility Assistance