A description of the authors’ visit to post-New Order Aceh in late December 2007, after the tsunami had struck and representatives of international aid agencies had completed their work and departed. The travelers report their conversations with the Acehnese they met in Siti Kalang, Meulaboh, Banda Aceh, Bireuen, and Langsa, and reflect on these encounters, as well as their impressions of different sites—shops, mass graveyards, hotels.