Categorization Of Womenx19S Lower Body Shapes Using Multi-View 3D Body Scan Measurements, And Development Of Shape-Driven Automated Custom Patterns

Abstract

In this dissertation, automated customization is considered as a promising way of improving garment fit. This research addressed the commercial systems that use 3D body measurements to generate custom fit patterns by applying automated alterations to a graded pattern. The goal of this study was to test whether improved customization could occur if the process is started from base patterns that are balanced and corrected for each customer's figure type and posture. Data collection and analysis intertwined in this multi-step project which consists of (stage 1) statistical analysis for lower body shape categorization based on 2,981 women aged 18 to 35 from SizeUSA data, identifying three distinct shape groups, (stage 2) development of basic block pants patterns in each body shape by fitting three representative women in each of the three shape groups, and (stage 3) validation of the use of the basic block patterns for different shape groups in a custom fit process by comparing the fit of two pairs of pants on 27 study participants (9 women in each group); one pair was generated from the automated custom patternmaking system using a standard base pattern, and the other pair was generated using the appropriate block pattern driven by body shape. In stage 1, five components were identified to represent distinctive shapes from the silhouette and profile views of the lower body using principal component analysis: PC1: body measurements that define waist to top hip silhouette, PC2: body measurements that define top hip to hip silhouette, PC3: body measurements that define buttocks prominence, z-score 1: the drop of front abdomen depth to waist front depth, and z-score 2: the drop of front abdomen depth to front hip depth. From cluster analysis, three body shape groups were found: group 1 (curvy shape) has the curviest silhouette between waist level and top hip level, and the most prominent abdomen among the three groups; group 2 (hip tilt shape) has the most prominent buttocks, and their lower body is tilted toward the back; group 3 (straight shape) has a non-curvy silhouette and less prominent buttocks. From 83 participants, 3 primary fit models for development of base block patterns and 9 fit testers for validation of the use of the basic block patterns in a custom fit process were selected for each group. From 83 participants, 3 fit models (one primary) were chosen for each shape group for stage 2, and 9 participants from each shape group were selected for stage 3. In stage 3 an automated custom-made system for which alterations started from the three block patterns driven by body shape was developed, and the fit of pants (type A) developed from this system was compared with the fit of pants (type B) created from an automated custom-made system using a single block pattern. Evaluation of fit was conducted by 3 experts and by the 27 wearers. The results of experts' evaluations showed that type A provided significantly better fit at waist ease, waist placement, crotch length, and side seam placement. At abdomen ease, buttocks ease, front crotch ease, front thigh ease, and side seam location, type A was also judged to have a tendency to exhibit better fit even though the differences of the two types were not significantly different. At back crotch ease, thigh ease, and inseam length, type B had a tendency to exhibit equal or better fit, but the fit variables were not significantly different and the values of the differences were not large. Wearers' fit analysis showed some similar responses to those of the expert analysis.