THE EFFECT OF HEM FINISHES ON FABRIC AND GARMENT DRAPE: A COMPARISON OF PHYSICAL AND DIGITAL DRAPE
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This study explores the impact of hem finishes on fabric drape and garment drape, comparing physical and digital samples. Using physical fabric samples and 3D CAD software Browzwear’s VStitcher, the study assessed how hem types of influence fabric drape coefficients and draped fabric profiles. Measuring drape traditionally uses the Cusick Drapemeter with fabric samples that have unfinished edges. This study, however, measures fabric drape using the same Cusick Drapemeter but includes four different hems: raw edge, coverstitch, double fold, and serged edge with one fold. Findings revealed significant differences between digital and physical samples, particularly in drape coefficient (DC), circularity (CIRC), standard deviation of peak angles (SDPA), mean node severity (MNS), and drape distance coefficient (DDC). Weight, hem finish, and fabric structure were key factors affecting the drape. Findings revealed that different weave structures and hem finishes significantly influence drape characteristics such as SDPA, SDNS, and MNS, with notable variations between physical and digital fabric simulations. This study highlights the necessity for standardized drape measurement methods to ensure consistency and accuracy in physical and virtual garment design, contributing valuable insights for the apparel industry.